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The rundown UK town plagued by abandoned shops that’s on the up – ‘deserves to be a city’

Municipality with 140,000 population has faced double rejection, but locals are determined to give the area the ‘recognition it deserves’

Tavern Street in Ipswich. The town is bidding to become the 2029 UK City of Culture

Tavern Street in Ipswich. The town is bidding to become the 2029 UK City of Culture (Image: Getty)

When I heard of Ipswich’s bold bid for the 2029 UK City of Culture, I couldn’t help but think: “Here we go again…” The Suffolk town, perhaps best known to football fans for its recently promoted Premier League club, has a long history of trying to score its ultimate goal of city status.

It famously threw everything at the Millennium City Status Competition in 2000, only to miss out on promotion to Brighton, Inverness and Wolverhampton. Undeterred, it tried again in 2012 for the late Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations, this time being edged out by Chelmsford, Perth and St Asaph.

It could’ve been third time lucky in 2022, to mark Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee, but this time the town sensationally dropped the application before it was even submitted amid doubts over its likely success. Gallingly, nearby Colchester won the city status its neighbour has long dreamt of.

Yet town leaders never give up hope. The Future City Ipswich campaign was set up in 2022 to prepare for another crack at the top prize.

Now, Ipswich is back with yet another bid after being longlisted for the UK City of Culture by the Government – large towns are allowed to apply – alongside Blackpool, Inverness-Highland, Middlesbrough, Milton Keynes, Portsmouth, Sheffield, Swindon, and Wrexham.

It gets £60,000 of Government funding to present an application – and while winning the contest will not give it official city status, the acclaimed title would surely put it tantalisingly close to its dream.

I know Ipswich well. I worked there for several years while living in Suffolk and vividly remember the highly contentious 2021 bid.

But when I return to learn more about the latest attempt, being led by current Ipswich MP Jack Abbott, it does not take long to find people who, in Suffolk dialect, take a rum ol’ view.

Lilian Folley, 77, who lives near Ipswich’s Norwich Road, rubbishes the City of Culture bid as “laughable”.

She adds: “Ipswich has gone downhill so badly. The town centre is absolutely awful. I don’t come in normally. The shops are vape and phone shops, and not a lot else.

“They need to clean up the streets and get rid of the vape shops. No disrespect to charity shops, but where do I go to buy anything?

“You’ve got people sleeping on the streets. It’s got to be a bit more upmarket.”

Lilian Folley thinks the City of Culture bid is 'laughable'

Lilian Folley thinks the City of Culture bid is ‘laughable’ (Image: Andrew Papworth)

The old Debenhams unit remains empty

The old Debenhams unit remains empty (Image: Andrew Papworth)

Ipswich, which claims to be the UK’s oldest continuous town, has certainly faced bitter struggles. Even though it is Suffolk’s county town, its range of shops is eclipsed by nearby Norwich and Cambridge.

Resident Allen Heathrick, 80, echoes many when he says Bury St Edmunds, less than 30 miles away, feels “far friendlier”.

“Ipswich doesn’t have that feeling any more, because there are blank shops,” he says.

Like many towns, Ipswich’s high street has been hit hard by devastating store closures as online shopping continues to wreak havoc on traditional retail.

Among its ugliest empty units are the old Debenhams, complete with hideous metal railings outside, and the post office in the former TG Jones, which shut just this month.

Both are in the most historic buildings right in the heart of the town centre. They are by no means the only eerily vacant premises.

“It’s got weaker, not stronger,” adds Heathrick. “I think if we had the shops fill up a bit more, it would entice people into the place. With shops and pubs getting less and less, it’s a concern.”

Allen Heathrick wants to see more shops in Ipswich

Allen Heathrick wants to see more shops in Ipswich (Image: Andrew Papworth)

Asked for his views on the high street, pensioner Michael Houghton exclaims: “What town centre? There are too many vape shops and hairdressers.

“There needs to be more entertainment or places for youngsters.” He is “50/50” about the City of Culture bid.

Tracy Webb works in the town centre but lives in Ipswich’s old city rival, Chelmsford.

“I personally don’t like Ipswich and the way the town is run,” she says.

“I don’t feel safe. I feel safer in Chelmsford. There are just people approaching you all the time, asking if you’ve got money or a cigarette. A lot of people hang about around the car parks.”

She praises Ipswich Central Business Improvement District’s security team for helping to make the town feel safer during the day. But she adds: “The town centre is dying. So many shops are going and not opening. When they do open, they’re all the same – so many vape shops and phone shops.

“They’ve got to start helping the shop owners. It would be nice for more high street stuff. It needs more help and variety, and cheaper car parking.”

If the town is to win its City of Culture bid, she believes “they’ve got to up their game”.

Ipswich has historic, picturesque streets but also several empty shop units

Ipswich has historic, picturesque streets but also several empty shop units (Image: Andrew Papworth)

Yet I was surprised to discover a massive advantage Ipswich has over even the largest metropolises.

It is this: despite its many critics, knockbacks, and being the butt of plenty of jokes, Ipswich has an army of fiercely loyal defenders.

They are not prepared to accept detractors talking it down. They are determined to defend its reputation, shout about its strengths, and fight tooth and nail for improvements. They are fully behind the City of Culture campaign.

Karen Jones, 57, of Ipswich, says: “Hopefully, it will just wake people up on the outskirts of Ipswich so that they will come in, take part in activities, and shop in our wonderful independents.

“Yes, Ipswich town centre does have some issues. We all know what they are. But let’s focus on the positives going for the City of Culture.

“You’ve got lots of strong independents here. As for cultural events, you’ve got something on every night of the week if you want it.”

Ipswich boasts several theatres, with the Regent unveiling a £3.5million revamp and extension last year. The popular 500-year-old Christchurch Mansion boasts Constable and Gainsborough paintings.

The Grade II Listed Ipswich Museum is also undergoing an £11.8million renovation to include an upgraded natural history gallery and café.

“A lot of people who come to Ipswich for a day love it,” says Jones. “They’re impressed by the town.”

Karen Jones says 'let's focus on the positives' of Ipswich

Karen Jones says ‘let’s focus on the positives’ of Ipswich (Image: Andrew Papworth)

Christchurch Mansion, built in 1550, is one of Ipswich's major attractions

Christchurch Mansion, built in 1550, is one of Ipswich’s major attractions (Image: Getty)

Ewan Chisnall, 20, lives outside of Ipswich but believes it is a “good place” that is growing in popularity, while resident Praewpailin Siamrat thinks it “deserves to be a city”.

“I like it,” says the 43-year-old. “It’s quiet and peaceful, everyone is really friendly. It’s very convenient, and there are lots of shops.”

Zoe Woods, owner of Crafty Baba, says of the City of Culture bid: “I love it. I can’t think of many reasons why we shouldn’t.”

The 51-year-old, who has been in her St Peter’s Street store for 12 years, realises Ipswich has difficulties.

But she believes by succeeding in the bid: “We’d attract more money into the town, and that’s got to be a good thing. Also, we don’t have a city in Suffolk, so from that point of view it would be good.

“People coming to Suffolk head to Aldeburgh or Southwold, and they bypass Ipswich. We would be able to be more on the map.”

Praewpailin Siamrat thinks Ipswich 'deserves to be a city'

Praewpailin Siamrat thinks Ipswich ‘deserves to be a city’ (Image: Andrew Papworth)

Zoe Woods believes becoming a city would attract more money into Ipswich

Zoe Woods believes becoming a city would attract more money into Ipswich (Image: Andrew Papworth)

Predecessors such as Hull have reported millions of visitors and a substantial economic boost.

Cheyenne Morgan does not live in Ipswich but says: “I come to Ipswich often, I like the character and I think it’s important to keep the high street shops where they are.

“There are too many empty shops, for sure. But there’s character here in the buildings. There’s a community feel, even though I don’t live around here.”

The 60-year-old believes winning the City of Culture, which would bring a packed programme of cultural events, exhibitions, performances and more to the area, would inject valuable money into the town.

“I’d like to see it up and rising and more like it used to be years ago,” she says.

Wendy Childs, 77, owner of Maud’s Attic, a gift and homeware shop in St Peter’s Street, said: “I’m very positive about Ipswich. I not only work in the town centre but live in the town centre.

“I do travel the country buying, and I do believe that compared to other places, Ipswich is brilliant.

“I totally accept that towns are changing all over the country. But I’ve stayed in this shop for 30 years, and I would say that business is every bit as good as it has ever been.”

Wendy Childs has been in her shop for 30 years

Wendy Childs has been in her shop for 30 years (Image: Andrew Papworth)

Mark Hubert, owner of James St Peter’s menswear store, says the City of Culture bid could act as a catalyst for change.

“Ipswich has far more culture, creativity and character than it is often given credit for,” says the 57-year-old.

“This bid is a real opportunity to bring that story together, from our heritage and independent businesses to the many different communities and talented people who make Ipswich what it is.

“For me, this is about much more than winning a title. It is about building confidence in Ipswich and making sure it receives the regional, as well as national, recognition it deserves.”

He says Ipswich is “definitely underrated”, and adds: “It’s my home town and I believe in it. It’s definitely on the up.”

Mark Hubert says Ipswich has 'far more culture, creativity and character than it is often given credit for'

Mark Hubert says Ipswich has ‘far more culture, creativity and character than it is often given cred (Image: Mark Hubert)

Actually, this resolute pride isn’t a complete surprise to me. I remember Ipswich’s formidable community spirit well.

But the sheer strength of feeling took me aback. Maybe this City of Culture bid has lit a fire in its biggest supporters.

Ipswich certainly has its challenges. But the deep love locals have for the town, despite its faults, shows that this possible future city will always remain remarkably special, whether it grabs the 2029 crown or not.

At Ipswich’s Portman Road ground, supporters famously chant “up the Town!” Maybe one day, the rest of Ipswich will shout “up the city”.

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